Put your finger on the southernmost point of Turkey and Yayladağı is what comes up underneath — no coincidence, there's nowhere further south, and you can feel the border breathing down your neck. Pine scent hangs at the foot of Kel Dağı, and a flat silence runs along the Karasu, the kind that swallows any question of what to do next. Anyone in a hurry doesn't make it this far. You've come this far to the edge — leave the decision to the dice, you just walk.